When planning a trip to Morocco, most travelers focus on the well-known destinations like Marrakech, Fez, and Casablanca. However, one of the country’s best-kept secrets is the small town of Bhalil in the Middle Atlas Mountains. Nestled in a scenic valley just a short drive from Fez, Bhalil offers visitors a glimpse into traditional Berber life among its most unique attractions – cave dwellings that have been inhabited for centuries. In this blog post, I’ll share what makes Bhalil so special, how to get there, where to stay, and some of the top things to see and do during a visit.
#Why Bhalil is Worth Visiting
A Window into Berber Culture
Bhalil dates back to the 4th century and retains much of its traditional character. What makes it particularly interesting is the preserved Berber cave dwellings carved into the surrounding limestone hills that continue to serve as homes today. Walking through these centuries-old structures gives you a real sense of what life was like for the indigenous Berber people long ago.
##UNESCO World Heritage Caves
The caves themselves are a geological marvel, having been formed millions of years ago by Atlantic Ocean waves eroding the soft rock. Some have since been incorporated into multilevel homes with kitchens, bedrooms, and storerooms extending deep underground. Others operate as shops selling local handicrafts like woven djellaba buttons – Bhalil’s specialty product. The caves are of such cultural significance that Bhalil has been nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status.
Immersive Cultural Experiences
Many residents still adhere to cherished Berber customs like women wearing the haik, an outer garment unique to Moroccan women. You can gain fascinating insights into everyday Bhalilian life by staying with a local family or taking a walking tour led by a knowledgeable guide. Interacting with the people here offers some of the most memorable travel experiences in Morocco.
#Getting to Bhalil
Bhalil lies 16 miles from Fez in the northwestern part of the country. Public transport options are very limited, so the recommended ways to travel are:
- Rent a car in Fez and follow signs for the small town of Sefrou, then continue 6 km farther northwest to Bhalil. The scenic mountain road takes around 30 minutes.
- Take a bus from Fez to nearby Sefrou, then a petit taxi (shared taxi) for the short trip on to Bhalil. The whole journey should cost around 50MAD each way.
- Hire a private taxi or guide arranged through your hotel in Fez. This is more expensive but more convenient than coordinating public transport.
#Where to Stay in Bhalil
Until recently, Bhalil had only one guesthouse, Dar Kamal Chaoui, run by the delightful host Kamal. It remains the top accommodation thanks to Kamal’s warm hospitality and homecooked meals enjoyed on the roof terrace with panoramic views.
Dar Kamal Chaoui has 3 simple but tastefully furnished guest rooms with private bathrooms for 200-300MAD per night. Kamal also offers transportation to and from Fez, as well as guided walking tours of Bhalil. It’s the best base for cultural immersion without a car.
A few newer, smaller guesthouses have also opened in recent years butreviews are still limited. Booking well in advance is recommended during high season from April to June.
#Top Things to Do in Bhalil
Explore the Cave Dwellings
No visit is complete without seeing Bhalil’s famous troglodyte homes. Ask your host to take you to neighbors’ cliffside abodes or the shops in Ali Baba cave. Photographing interior spaces requires permission.
Learn Berber Traditions
Walk the medina streets and watch women weaving buttons, visit Beqqal herbalists, or see designs hand-printed onto cloth. Stop in cafes serving mint tea to chat with locals.
Wander the Olive Groves
Stroll between gnarled centuries-old trees carpeted with wildflowers, taking in views of Sefrou and the High Atlas range beyond.
Experience a Hammam
Drop in to the simple public bathhouse for a scrub-down with black soap in three rooms of increasing heat (10-15MAD).
Browse Crafts and Produce Markets
Don’t miss the weekly souq for shopping handicrafts, spices, argan oil and seasonal mountain foods.
Hike Nearby Trails
Guided walks embark from Bhalil up surrounding hills to secluded picnic spots with panoramic vistas.
Conclusion
Despite its small size, Bhalil rewards visitors with a look into the rich heritage and landscapes of Morocco few tourists experience. Its preserved Berber cave neighborhood feels untouched by modern tourism yet offers ample cultural exchanges for those who linger awhile. Whether you spend a day trip or overnight, be sure to carve out time for relaxing amid Bhalil’s simple charms before continuing your Moroccan adventure.
